Choose Your Cruise

"Bustling" Altata Malecon.

On weekends the town explodes with locals from big cities nearby.

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After spending time in La Paz, I have realized the importance of choosing, and then actually doing, the type of cruising that works for you. This may sound like an underwhelming realization, but when it means getting off the proverbial beaten path it can be challenging and come with some trade-offs.

For those of you who have ever done any international backpacking with a Lonely Planet in your pack, you may remember that the stops written up as popular were always packed. Further, there was infrastructure that made it easy to get to and be in those places – more restaurants, hostels, bus stops, etc. The section literally labeled “Getting Off the Beaten Path” also meant you were going to have a harder time getting and being there. A town or a business not listed in the LP most often meant “not worth visiting” to the average traveler. Cruising Guides are the Lonely Planets of the seafaring community. They have invaluable info on port entrances, anchorages, marinas, and much much more. But they also end up putting the lion share of boats on exactly the same itineraries. More boats clustered together means more services catered to them which means more boats come and so on. Ask cruisers where they stopped between San Diego and Cabo, and 9 outta 10 times you’re going to get the same 2-3 answers. Post-Cabo, there is a divergence: La Paz or La Cruz in Puerto Vallarta.

La Paz is the cruising capital of Baja and northern mainland Mexico. It’s also near the top of many “Top 10 Places to Retire” lists, so there is a large population of American and Canadian cruisers and ex-pats. By Mexico standards, a lot of English is spoken, getting boat parts and services is fairly straightforward as is food shopping, medical/dental/optical services, and really just about everything else (except Pirate’s Booty snacks – outta luck there.) There are also some beautiful secluded islands and anchorages within an easy daysail away to “get out of town”. Hence many cruisers arrive and stay for a loooong time, with some never leaving. After being there for 6 weeks (2 of which Harry was home and I was alone), I had to decide if I wanted to stay for 2 more months while Harry again returned home. In a word, nope. My Spanish was going nowhere, I did not feel compelled to participate in the various cruisers’ activities, and frankly the only interactions I was having with locals was as a customer of some sort. No bueno. There was another couple feeling much the same way that had decided to head for La Cruz near Puerto Vallarta, but some online and offline research led me to the personal conclusion that La Cruz is the La Paz of the mainland (albeit with an easier anchorage) and likely not the long-term place for me.

I poured over the (double-edged sword) guidebook and zero-ed in on Altata, a spot 120 miles north of Mazatlán. “With the perfect mix of sleepy seclusion, all-round protection, incredibly fresh seafood and best of all, its near obscurity on the traditional cruising boat’s itinerary, Bahía de Altata is a locale not to miss.” Bingo. Other cruising guides either didn’t mention Altata at all, or focused more on its challenging/potentially dangerous entrance over its charm. I did surmise a few drawbacks: the marina is 3 miles by dinghy and 5.6 miles by bike to town which only has a few very small tiendas for food-shopping, and no laundromat. The only buses to get to the bigger cities of Navolato and Culiacán leave from Altata proper. Anchoring closer to town is great for a night or two, but not a realistic long-term option for several reasons. However once we learned the price per month at the marina with wifi, potable water, laundry, a restaurant, fuel-dock, and access to a pool was only 7000p (~360USD), it landed squarely as my #1 choice.    

As I type this I have been at Marina Isla Cortes near Altata for nearly 4 weeks. I have met lovely people from town and the marina, spent time with different families, been to Navolato and Culiacán both on my own and with new friends…all the while speaking labored but ever-improving Spanish (and very little English). Many here are surprised that a gringa (white woman) would be here alone for 2 whole months, and have made generously warm offers of assistance and friendship. I have had a lot of alone time here, but I can honestly say I have yet to be bored (cleaning and polishing stainless helps fill the days). And ya, the long often-wet dinghy ride to town followed by a long bus ride and back just to go grocery shopping does in-fact suck, but I am gladly trading that off for being a part of Mexican culture versus just another white customer.

Altata in its present form is not going to be for everyone. The potentially difficult entrance to the bay and long dinghy + bus rides for simple needs will certainly put some folks off. The lack of other cruisers isn’t ideal for cruising families (having other boat kids around is unlikely). But for those who are seeking out the non-beaten path, Altata is Awesome. It has proven to me that Harry & I should continue seeking out those courses less-traveled while we have the energy and conviction to do so. For me/us, it’s totally worth the trade-offs.