Single-handed Adventure

Back in 2004 when I put the wheels in motion to sail off into the proverbial sunset, the plan was that I would do so as a singlehander, i.e. me and my boat, with perhaps a cat or dog, but no one else. Why? I’m not entirely sure but it seemed right up my alley. At that point I hadn’t yet read any of the singlehanding classics (Maiden Voyage, Sailing Alone Around the World, Dove) yet once I did shortly thereafter, the solo plan was solidified. But here’s the thing, unless you just up and buy a boat by yourself right off the bat, while you’re learning and gaining experience, you’re actually NEVER on a boat singlehanded. Maybe you’re short-handed, as-in only you and the owner/captain, but no one is going to say to a new sailor, “oh here take my boat by yourself.” (Insurance companies also inquire about who’s onboard and everyone’s experience). Ten years of sailing with others later when I did in fact have my own boat, I was actually a little scared to go out alone. I poked my nose out here and there to prove to myself that I could, and drove her back and forth to the yard as needed, but I never set out single-handed, for real. Harry came along shortly thereafter. While my mom was relieved that singlehanding was probably out of the picture, I was a bit bummed.

Since we left the bay area last year, I have spent A LOT of time on the boat solo. Harry heads home for work or family needs, while Tux and I hold down the ship. But a combination of being places with no desirable cruising nearby (Morro Bay, Chula Vista, Altata) and personal doubts in my ability to do everything necessary has kept me stationary during those periods. Between you and me I don’t think Harry had the confidence in me either. But over the course of our last couple of cruises, I started doing more of the “Harry” jobs for both of our sakes. When we pulled into Puerto Escondido for another 2-3 week pause for him to go home, I asked if I could go out to the nearby islands. I knew I was ready when he said yes.

Several days later I set out on a multi-day trip around Isla Carmen with forecasted winds of 0-15 generally out of the west for the first half, then out of the east for the second half. I had planned for one anchorage, two if all was well. I took little selfie videos of the journey, below. For the reading types, a summary:

5 days/4 nights, 50+ miles, 3 anchorages, 5-25+ knot winds out of the N, S, E, W and all points between, sailed about 65%, motor-sailed the rest.
Day 1: Great day of sailing, but the wind was out of the SE (rather than W?!) so my planned anchorage open to the SE wasn’t going to work. Had to go around a point (rougher seas) to anchor elsewhere (Bahia Cobre). Had an uncomfortable night with a lot of wrap-around swell and little sleep.
Day 2: Building winds out of the NW really whipped up the sea through the morning. A very-well N, S, and E protected anchorage lay on the West side of the island, but to get there we’d have to muscle around the whole north side, with seas on our beam. This would’ve been fine were it not for our dinghy hung from low davits. This turned into a dangerous situation as waves tossed it around. The outboard fuel tank got knocked out, and though I had rescued the foot pump, it sloshed out of our open cockpit a bit later. It could’ve been MUCH worse. Other than the stupid dinghy, I was proud of how I handled a challenging day alone. We arrived at the anchorage on the west side mid-afternoon, where several other boats were hiding (so we didn’t get the greatest spot at first).
Day 3: Rest in Puerto Ballandra. Swim, explore the beach, re-anchor when a comfier spot opened up.
Day 4: Motor over to Loreto, anchor and kayak to shore to replace outboard fuel tank (hallelujah one was in stock). Kayak back for a beer and stroll around sunset. 25+ winds out of the west that night, but ideal spot to be anchored for those conditions – very little motion, just loud wind.
Day 5: Mostly sail, but some motor-sailing back to Puerto Escondido. Rinse boat and get back on the mooring ball. Sleep very very well.

Lessons Learned/Remembered:
-> The Sea of Cortez doesn’t really do forecasts. There are larger patterns that generally hold true, but there are also so many localized variations that you really need to be ready for anything. This means backup anchorages, very vigilant sailing, & close attention to shifting conditions.
-> In anything but the flattest conditions, our dinghy goes on the foredeck. Harry and I together had started coming to this conclusion when we saw the pontoons drag a few times while sailing, but now it’s a new rule set-in-stone.
-> I need to be physically-able to do absolutely everything Harry can do. He had always been the one to move the outboard from the skiff to the cockpit mount and back. I had half-heartedly tried once. It’s only 61lbs. but it’s super awkward and difficult to manuever even in calm conditions. On Day 3, out of sheer necessity, I managed to get it back on its cockpit mount (and several days later back on the skiff). In reality we need a hoist like everyone else has, but now I know I am able if need be.

I am REALLY glad I took the trip, despite the rough patch. While it is without-a-doubt easier to have another strong sailor aboard, it’s incredibly empowering to know that I can in-fact do everything that needs doing alone (everything away from docks that is, I am still horrible at close-quarters maneuvering). For all you sailors who are part of a pair or group, if you ever get the opportunity to singlehand, take it!